Moisture Content and Painting

September 17, 2018/in Exterior, Interior Painting /by David Klappenberger

When you want to have your home or business repainted, you want a paint job that will last for years to come. The last thing you need is chipped paint that peels off your walls just months after it was applied. But you might not know that there’s a simple step you can take to prevent peeling paint.

You can ensure that your paint will adhere to its surface by checking your walls for their moisture content before the paint is applied.

Many people take this for granted. After all, most online painting tips fail to mention that you should check the surfaces moisture levels before applying a stain or a coat of paint. You also won’t even typically notice high moisture content without using a professional reader. But moisture levels above 15% for primers, paints and most stains will result in paint peeling.

At Klappenberger & Son, we know just how important it is to test the moisture content prior to applying any paint. It doesn’t matter how much prep work and sanding do. It doesn’t matter if you use the best primers, and premium grade paint money can buy. If the moisture content is above 16% the paint will peel. The higher it is the faster it will peel. We believe in focusing on quality from the beginning to the end of any paint job, so we consider the moisture content of any Maryland home or business before we begin painting. Read on to learn more about paint failure, the importance of moisture content management and the process we use to balance your walls’ moisture levels.

Man painting outdoor overhead trim.

Why Does Paint Peel?

Paint will allow a certain amount of moisture to pass through without peeling. But when the sun wants to bring its strong powerful rays down on that siding or trim after time the paint will fail and crack. It loses it flexibility, like dry skin it cracks. In the early stages of getting painted the paint has amazing flexibility. I painted a pergola before and it rained the next 4 days. Fortunately, most of the pergola was fine but there were a few bubbles. She described the as big pockets of water! I asked her to pop the bubbles and I would come back in a few days to repaint it. When I did we could hardly find the bubbles. The paint had reattached to the pergola. Amazing! We sanded them off and repainted. If the paint job was older the paint wouldn’t have been so flexible and it would crack and peel.

Exterior paint is susceptible to harsh elements, peeling with both excessive heat or rain and snow. But if your paint wears away in multiple places at once or without any apparent cause, you face a more serious underlying problem.

Interior paint is also exposed to high moisture levels from showers, cooking and daily wear and tear that can occur especially if you have children.

Several factors can contribute to the continuous peeling of paint, including:

Inadequate surface preparation or failure to prime surfaces
Wrong Primer
Wallpaper glue was not removed sufficiently
Dirty surfaces
High moisture levels

While you should consider each of these problems in determining the reason behind your paint failure, harmful moisture levels are one of the most common reasons for peeling paint, and they’re the number one cause of premature paint failure on wood surfaces. If you’re not sure why your paint is peeling, checking the moisture levels is one of the first steps you should take. Even if surfaces feel dry to the touch, they could still harbor excessive dampness that eats away at paint and damages the overall structure. The human hand is not able to detect moisture anywhere near the 15% threshold.

Exterior walls are regularly exposed to moisture. And while these walls are built to be water-repellant, excessive water exposure over time can lead to moisture retention. Some of the factors leading to high exterior moisture levels include clogged gutters, worn-out caulking, heavy rain or snow, migration of high moisture from an interior wall, leaking roofs and paint that was applied to previously damp surfaces. The most common reason for paint peeling though is when trim is not installed properly. Butt joints in wood should be primed. Water loves to find a butt joint and wick into it just like a candle. Butt joints at bases of doors, but joints in trim absorb water. The solution is always to prevent water from entering but the common most painters do is caulk it and paint it. You can caulk it but don’t paint it until the moisture content drops below 16%. If the wood is rotten but dry, and you apply an epoxy or wood filler, unless all the softwood is removed, it will still peel.

Once moisture is trapped in a surface, paint loses its adhesion and swells and peels around the moist area. Peeling often begins along the edges of a board or drywall and spreads along the rest of the surface over time. You might notice a brownish water stain before the paint starts to chip shortly after.

And not only does moisture retention itself peel paint, but dampness might also result in surface rot to wood siding, boards or frames.

Unaddressed water retention can attract wood-decaying fungi, which creates rot. This rot eats away at and softens the wood. It can also attract mold, insects and other pests that further break the wood apart. Window frames and doorways are some of the most common problem spots for surface rot, but the fungi can easily spread to non-wood surfaces.

When surface rot breaks wood apart and attracts wood-eating insects, the paint no longer has a smooth surface to stick onto and quickly begins to peel. You might first notice a white or grey growth on the wood, which quickly gives way to blistering, peeling or cracked paint. If wood surfaces feel soft or spongy, the paint is likely peeling due to surface rot.

How to Manage Moisture Content

Controlling both interior and exterior surfaces’ moisture content is vital in ensuring that paint sticks to your walls and surfaces for years. After all, you don’t want to waste your money on a paint job that is bound to fail from the beginning.

If you don’t currently suspect high moisture content but want to protect your walls from potential problems both before and after a paint job, you can choose to manage moisture content on your own. But if your paint is currently peeling and you suspect high moisture levels, hiring a professional to take a reading and quickly address any pressing issues with the walls and paint is your best choice in ensuring your paint’s longevity and your building’s health.

1. Managing Moisture Levels Personally

You can take several steps towards managing moisture content on your own, especially if you don’t currently have a problem with peeling paint.

Taking preventive measures is helpful if you’re getting your walls painted soon or recently had your walls painted and want to make sure the new paint stays in good condition for as long as possible. You can also manage moisture content when building a new home or business to prevent any damage after construction is complete.

The Environmental Protection Agency created an extensive guide to controlling moisture content during the construction of new buildings. But these points can also be applied to current residential and commercial properties.

According to the guide, here are some steps you can take towards lowering your walls’ moisture levels:

Drain any rain or snow away from the building. Weather conditions can harm exterior walls over time and make them more prone to damage and rot. Divert any water away from walls or other susceptible surfaces.
Provide a clear path for water to exit. Roofs need to slope to prevent water from collecting, and roof drains should stay clear at all times to channel rainwater away from the building. Clean leaves and debris from the drains regularly.
Prevent plumbing leaks. If toilets, showers or sinks continuously leak water towards your walls, the walls and floor will take significant damage over time. Monitor your plumbing lines and make sure they’re unlikely to freeze or to come into contact with porous insulation.
Use ventilation systems to keep interior walls dry. Exhaust fans remove water vapor from showers, cooking areas, locker rooms or indoor recreational areas such as indoor pools. Make sure that the fans in your building work properly, and consider installing air conditioners with dehumidifiers set to activate at a certain dew point.
Inspect walls, roofs, ceilings, plumbing systems and thermostats periodically. Inspecting the most common problem areas for moisture levels keeps you well-informed on the status of your home or business. You’ll also be more likely to notice if something is out of the ordinary and can more quickly take preventive measures if you routinely check the area.

You can also manage your moisture content by monitoring your high-humidity activities such as showering or cooking. If possible, open a nearby window to allow the moisture to escape without draining into the walls. Remembering to turn on bathroom or kitchen fans as needed also helps increase air flow. These simple, everyday preventive tasks can save you hundreds on repairs.

But if you find that your walls’ moisture is dangerously high or if your paint’s already peeling, repainting over the spot or trying to fix the problem yourself won’t solve the underlying issue. It’s often best to contact a professional to get an accurate moisture reading.

2. Professional Moisture Content Management

Hiring a professional to check and manage moisture in your walls is always a good idea, but it’s especially important if you’re interested in getting your home repainted soon or if you suspect that water damage is already destroying your walls and peeling your paint. And if your building was recently flooded, it’s best to contact a professional even if you don’t immediately see any signs of damage. A professional painter will take the steps necessary to lower moisture content before repainting the affected walls.

An experienced painter can assess high moisture levels using moisture meters or other testing methods. In fact, it’s imperative for any painter to diagnose and repair water damage immediately so that new paint isn’t compromised. These professional moisture meters and tests accurately measure water damage so that necessary action can be taken:

Pin-type meter: Also known as a destructive or invasive moisture meter, a pin-type meter uses two contact pins that penetrate the desired surface at a set depth. The meter measures the electrical resistance between them to determine the percentage of moisture content. Pin-type readers are most often used to measure wood, but they can also be used on drywall, ceilings and other flat, painted surfaces. These meters are best when looking to identify precisely where a water buildup occurred.
Pinless meter: A pinless moisture meter — also called non-destructive or non-invasive — reads water content levels at a wall’s surface without penetration by using electrical impedance. Pinless meters are especially useful for assessing water buildup behind showers, bathroom tiles and other finished surfaces. Painting a bathroom or painting a kitchen requires extra attention to detail because of the amount of moisture content the walls are likely to have.
All-in-one meter: Perhaps the most useful type of moisture meters, an all-in-one meter uses both pin and pinless technology to measure moisture levels. This versatile option can be used to read nearly any kind of material.

Professional readings can determine where the problem lies and how severe the damage is. If you’ve recently had a flood or other serious water damage, moisture levels will most likely be too high to repaint the area safely. Completely replacing a flooded surface is more cost effective than just painting over it. Further, repainting without taking care of underlying damage will multiply the problem and create more severe future issues.

But if your wall or surface is healthy enough to be fixed without complete replacement, it will still need to be sanded and repainted to protect the surrounding area and prevent further damage. Carpentry skills are a necessity when repairing and repainting damaged surfaces. Contact a painter with complementary carpenter skills — such as Klappenberger & Son if you are in the Maryland area — to guarantee that you’re getting the best service and a paint job that won’t chip due to untended damage.

What Happens If You Don’t Check Your Moisture Content

If you don’t check walls’ and surfaces’ moisture levels, you run the risk of repainting the surface in months not years. Remember, not amount of prep work, primers or premium grade paints will save you from painting damp surfaces. Painting contractors blame the paint, but most of the times its damp wood. A moisture meter can be purchased at some paint stores but a surprisingly small inventory is kept so call or just go online and order one.

1. Rot and Deterioration

Trapped moisture will result in surface rot and deterioration on both interior and exterior surfaces. Fungi and insects eat away at wood and other materials, which causes irreversible damage if not treated quickly.

Mold, which grows in any damp environment, takes hold of the area nearly as soon as dampness appears. A mold colony can form on a wet surface within 24 to 48 hours if preventive measures aren’t taken. From the original surface, mold continues to spread throughout the entire surface onto touching surfaces until it’s eliminated.

You might first start to notice mold through wall and ceiling discoloration or its musty smell. If it’s seen quickly, you can sometimes disinfect the area and prevent the mold from spreading. But if mold has damaged over 25 square feet of a surface, you’ll need to hire a professional to have it removed. Most often, the entire wall will need to be replaced and completely renovated. Renovation could cost anywhere between $500 and $1,000, a needless expense if preventive steps had been taken.

2. Degeneration of Old and Historic Buildings

Surface rot prevention particularly plays a critical role in the preservation of historic buildings. Rot eats away at the fragile building itself and prevents paint from sticking to the walls, which can completely deteriorate an old home.

The longevity of many historic buildings can be traced to their paint. Paint is one of the most important materials that preserve historic buildings, as it protects the wood siding from deterioration. Paint shelters a wall similar to the way sunscreen protects your body from the sun or the way insulated coats keep you from the cold winter elements. As you age, it becomes more critical to shield your body from harsh weather. Likewise, it becomes more crucial to protect a building’s paint as it ages.

You wouldn’t put on soaking wet clothes underneath a warm snowsuit before going out in freezing temperatures, right? You dress yourself to ensure your longevity and survival. Your building is no different. Historic buildings are especially prone to damage, and “dressing” a building properly with paint protects it from harmful elements.

When the paint wears away due to water damage, rot and mold quickly take its place. Failing to treat this high moisture and paint failure could compromise historical structures and even wholly decompose them.

3. Health Problems

The World Health Organization warns that dampness in walls and other indoor surfaces can fill your home with dust mites, fungi, bacteria, allergens and viruses that thrive in moist environments. Pollutants can have a lasting impact on you and everyone else in a building.

You might never have considered the lasting effects that mold and other fungi and bacteria have on your health. But health concerns due to mildew and rot have been linked to allergy problems and severe lifelong issues. These include:

Respiratory problems such as wheezing and asthma
Nasal and sinus congestion
Eye irritation such as burning, itching and watering
Skin irritation such as rashes, hives, eczema, dermatitis and acne
Problems with the nervous system such as headaches, memory loss and mood swings
Aches and pains

People with immune system complications and chronic lung conditions can be severely impacted by mold introduced into the home when high moisture isn’t treated. Because high moisture levels affect both your building’s health and the lives of those living in it, testing your walls for dampness is essential before having them painted or finished.

Our Process

At Klappenberger & Son, we do what any good painter should — test all areas for water damage before applying paint.

We understand that you want your paint to last a long time, and so do we. We never paint over damage because you deserve the highest quality job possible for your home or business. Our process involves fully testing an area before applying paint to ensure that the paint lasts for years to come.

Before beginning the painting process, we use professional moisture meters to find any potential problem spots with both interior and exterior surfaces. We mark off any troublesome with blue tape and will bring these areas to your attention prior to doing and correction.

We also replace rotten renewable composite material that does not absorb water. This takes all the guesswork out of wondering if the surface is damp. It’s not. And when a premium paint is applied you can expect the paint job to last of ten years. If you are going to replace the wood you might as well replace it with these products like Borel or Azek. These type of product will never rot and the fact that the paint job will last twice as long as wood makes the extra cost a moot point.

The trained professionals at Klappenberger & Son focus on integrity and attention to detail from start to finish with every job we do. Rather than just doing a shoddy job quickly, we give our customers consistent and predictable results. And with over 400 positive reviews, our record speaks for itself.

We’ve been a leader in interior and exterior painting for residential, commercial and government properties since 1989, and we continue to paint some of the finest homes in the Annapolis, Baltimore and Montgomery County regions. Contact us today to see what we can do for you in managing the moisture content and repainting of your walls, and trust us to provide the high-quality work you and your building deserve.

3 Rules To Painting Over Wallpaper

September 10, 2018/in Wallpaper Removal /by David Klappenberger

Removing wallpaper must be like going to purgatory. I envision in purgatory a simple man saying in a monotone voice, “When you get the wallpaper removed in this room done I have another one ready for you.” It’s horrible work, and there isn’t an easy way to get stubborn wallpaper off. Whether you use Diff, a steamer, or a Tiger Claw the time it takes to take it off can feel like forever. So, what are your options?

Announce to all your Facebook Friends that you are having a wallpaper stripping party. When no one shows, order your favorite small pizza and get whatever you want on it!
Hire someone to strip it.
Paint over it.

Wallpaper can come off in small postage stamp sizes to big easy wonderful sheets, and anywhere in between. There is no way to tell by looking at it. Only by removing it will you get a good idea. However, the amount of time can be vastly different from not just one room to the next but one wall in the same room.

Paint Over It Or Remove It Rules

Here are some tried and true rules to follow that will help you make decide whether to remove wallpaper or professionally have the interior painted over.

Rule #1

If the wallpaper it textured, it is going to have to be removed unless you don’t mind the texture. My recommendation is – don’t paint over it. It won’t help down the road when you want to sell.

Rule #2

If the wallpaper is in a full bath or kitchen your best bet is to remove all the wallpaper. Why? Because the steam from the shower or the abuse that a kitchen takes can cause the wallpaper adhesion to break over time. If the bathroom does not have a shower, it is safe to paint over.

Rule# 3

Try removing the wallpaper first. If it comes off in postage stamp sizes, stop and think about painting over it. Where ever you started you will have to remove 100% of the paper and 100% of the glue, and then spackle the edges for a smooth transition. Don’t worry, a good spackle and sanding job will hide where you started and where you stopped just make sure the glue is 100% off.

Steps to follow if you are painting over wallpaper:

When painting over wallpaper, oil and shellac primers are a safer bet to avoid the wallpaper from pealing. Oil and shellac primers do not penetrate the surface of the wallpaper like latex primers do. They sit on top of the paper and seal it. If you dare to use a latex primer make sure it is a primer sealer not a bonding primer. I’ve used latex sealer before and sometimes they work and sometimes they can make the wallpaper bubble in spots. Only once did I prime with a latex primer and all the wallpaper bubbled everywhere. In fact, it acted like a stripper and we ended up removing all the wallpaper.

Here are the steps in the proper order for painting over wallpaper

Use an oil or shellac primer sealer. You might as well have the primer color tinted to the wall color. It might save you from apply an additional coat of paint!
Spackle seams on wallpaper and sand. A thin layer of spackle is all you need. Don’t build the spackle up to resemble a community speed bump. Apply a tight spread of spackle to just bridge the seams.
If you don’t like spackle dust everywhere I recommend you buying a sanding attachment and hooking it to a shop vac. They can be purchased at any of the big box stores or Sherwin Williams store
After the spackle is sanded, caulk the edges of the wallpaper to the trim with a premium acrylic caulk that is at least rated for 55 years. Let the caulk sit for required amount of time before painting. If you paint too early the caulk is likely to crack
Prime spackle areas with the same primer used. The spackled areas need to be primed before the top coat is applied
I recommend painting over wallpaper with flat paint because it hides imperfections. Low Sheen and Eggshell finishes would be fine as well, but they show imperfections more than a flat. This may just mean that you must go back and spackle a few more areas again to smooth out differences. The advantage of low sheens and eggshell paints over flats is that they are more washable.

Q & A on Wallpaper Removal

Questions: What if the wallpaper peels down the road?

Answer: in 30 years that has only happened once, and we cut out the two pieces, removed 100% of the glue, primed, spackled and painted, and it disappeared. As I mentioned earlier, don’t paint over wallpaper in bathrooms and kitchens.

Question: How much time will it save to paint over wallpaper?

Answer: Hard to say for sure because every room is different but typically it reduces time from 10 hours (moderate) to 3 hours of work!

Question: Will anyone be able to tell that we painted over wallpaper?

Answer: If the wallpaper has no texture and the spackle was done properly. No way. Not a chance.

We have painted wallpaper boarder’s on top of wallpaper and you can’t tell.

Question: If I ever wanted to get the wallpaper off down the road would that be possible.

Answer: No. But let me ask you a question. Why would you? When you buy drywall it has a sheet of paper covering the white chalky substance. Have you ever had a desire or need to remove that? Now you have drywall with 2 sheets of paper on it. That’s a good thing!

Question: Can I apply a low sheen or semi-gloss paint instead of flat?

Answer: Yes. Just make sure you either you hire a professional drywall or painting company to do the spackling. Because of the sheen these paints have it makes the imperfections easier to see.

Question: What if I remove the wallpaper and it takes the drywall paper off and I am left with scrapes of that brown paper?

Answer: There is a different primer that needs to be applied on it and it is called a Drywall Conditioner. It is clear and will prevent the remaining paper from bubbling. If you damage the drywall or find it to be molding underneath you will need to replace the drywall because the paint will not remain on the wall due to a high moisture content.

Question: Can I use one of those paint and primers in one?

Answer: Not for the first coat of primer but you could for the second coat where you are just priming over that spackle spots.

Steps to follow if you are removing wallpaper

There are just a few ways to remove wallpaper and if the wallpaper comes off in big easy pieces you can skip this part and go straight down to removing wallpaper glue.

There are a few methods:

Tiger Claw – it does penetrate the wallpaper and allows and makes the stripper or breakdown the adhesive faster but boy is it a lot of work. Rolling the Tiger claw all over the walls is a lot of hard work and the marks its wheels leave in the wall will need to be spackled. I don’t like it.

The Steamer – I don’t like it either. Why? Slow….. slow……. my arms are getting tired …… slow…… strip a small patch (yeah) ………… slow………. boring………slow……..strip a bit more….. my arms are getting tired……….. did someone say pizza?

Diff Gel – It works and can be rolled on. You need to apply multiple applications which is fine but you end up using quite a bit of product and the cost adds up. But this is a good method.

Hot water with Diff Concentrate – this is my choice and works about the same as the Gel but it cost less. You will need a pump sprayer. You will also want to heat up the water as hot as possible. The hot water really opens up the pores of the

Make sure you protect the floor from the overspray and apply over and over keeping the walls moist for about 25-30 minutes. The longer they stay wet the easier it is to remove. You are not going to damage the walls or cause mold and mildew damage from applying to much product. Keep the walls wet! If the wallpaper is still coming off in small bits keep it wet longer.

Klappenberger and Son is your got to interior and exterior expert. We perform interior work such as custom carpentry, interior painting and commercial painting. We also do extensive exterior painting work. Contact us today and get your project started!

6 Reasons to Franchise

August 31, 2018/in Franchise /by David Klappenberger

Have you ever thought about owning your own business? Of course. The question naturally turns to what business should I get into it? Should I franchise or start my own? Can afford to buy a franchise? Here are some real benefits I’ve found to franchising. In full disclosure, I started my own professional painting business 26 years ago and am now franchising it. Having a painting franchise is great because I get to experience, work with and advise on how to build a painting business.

A common question I hear is “Why should I buy a franchise when I could start my own business for less?” It’s a good question and in my industry, professional painting, but there are a lot of reasons to join a franchise.

Reasons to Start a Franchise

Avoid Costly Mistakes

There are hundreds of mistakes you would make starting on your own business and each mistake will cost between $125.00 and $1,000’s. Trust me I have had some whoppers. I believe there are about 800 mistakes I’ve made and if each mistake cost an average of $250.00 x 800 mistakes I gave $200,000 to the school of hard knocks. Hey Bernie, do you cover tuition at the school of Hard Knocks? When you buy a franchise, they teach you how to avoid these mistakes. We have put together videos called “What Went Wrong” where we cover tons of mistakes and how to avoid them. We also have a franchise training process.

Franchises are Sellable

You buy a franchise for say $30,000 and build it up for 5-10 years you can sell it for about 2.5 -3 times your gross owners’ compensation! Having your own small business is harder to sell than one with brand recognition. Many times small businesses will just sell their assets and close their doors.

Franchises are More Successful Than New Businesses

Over a seven-year period, a franchise will fail 20% of the time as opposed to 70% of all startups fail. The learning curve has been figured out and the franchisee will the benefactor if they follow the system.

A Built-In Mentor

The continued support you get when buying a franchise helps you steer the ship with a team of experienced players. You don’t have to wing it or hire a consultant team. If you have a question your franchisor will have the experience to answer it.

Pre-Existing & Managed Marketing

I don’t know of a single franchise that won’t handle the website, social media. They have plenty of marketing info at your fingertips. It’s a great relief to have these things handled for you. So now your time is freed up to grow your business –or play golf (with an important client).

Business Growth Expertise

Business growth expert Dan Pena recommends growing a business as fast as possible and then selling it. He recommends surrounding yourself with whatever investors, experts (franchisor) you need and sell the mess in 5 years for a boatload of money and start something else. A franchise fits well because a franchisor has everything in place for you to:

Get the best RIO for your marketing dollars
Grow your customer base most effectively
Improve margins
Sell your business

Start Your Painting Franchise

If you are self-motivated and are willing to follow a proven process, start a painting franchise at Klappenberger & Son. Franchising will save you money, and allow you to build a business faster than starting one on your own.

For questions or comments please contact David Klappenberger at dklappenberger@klappenbergerandson.com or call 410-647-5700.

Knowing What Paint Stain is Right for Your Fence or Deck

July 20, 2018/in Deck, Exterior, Fence /by David Klappenberger

Deck & Fence Staining

Name: Klappenberger and Son, LLC
Address: 681 Arleigh Road, Severna Park, Maryland, 21146, United States
Telephone: 410-647-5700

Since 1989 I have been power washing and sealing decks for hundreds of customers throughout Maryland and I have learned from my mistakes and others mistakes. There are a lot of misconceptions, and mistakes people have made on treating their deck and fence. Deck and Fence staining are extremely similar in basic practice, but they vary in how they respond to the elements simply because water can sit on a deck while it runs off of a fence. Knowing how to manage and treat your deck and knowing how to best treat and service you fence is important for any homeowner.

I thought it would be helpful if I shared my experiences and guidance in our property management services. For many of us, the deck is a place to retreat from life for a little bit and have dinner, relax and enjoy the changing seasons. So it’s important to have the deck being in proper condition and not a distracting honeydew project. Decks are also one of the most frequently improperly maintained areas I run across. Wrong stains, poorly applied, with bad results again turns your oasis into a mess. And to be fair, if your deck is a mess, and you did it, you might be able to shed some of the blame. Decks are not simple. There is room for error and this article can hopefully navigate you through the process of picking the right stain or paint to best suit you and your deck.

Differentiating between different deck & fence stains & paints

Before we get started let’s define a few terms:

Damp – means a moisture content above 16%. New Pressure treated wood is considered damp and can take a full season to dry out. If the rained last night, the wood is damp. Some toners/wood preservatives and semi-transparent stains can be applied the same day it was power washed providing there are no puddles.
One coat products – One coat products seal themselves up when they dry. If it is sealed, and you apply a second coat and can dry to a glossy finish, and or also stay tacky for weeks!
Yes, I learned this lesson the hard way. The customer insisted we apply a second coat on her deck and it didn’t dry for about 2 weeks. Unfortunately, her party was one week out!

When to apply a second coat:

Prior to the first coat drying
If the wood is old and porous
If the surface is scuffed up with sandpaper or scrubbed with TSP. These two methods will break the sealant which would be blocking the second coat from absorbing.

Water test – drop a couple drops of water on areas that you desire to apply a second coat. If it absorbs in 10 seconds it is safe to assume that your wood will accept a second coat of the one coat product. But I still would try a couple sample areas as well.

Wood Preservative or Toners –When you see the words “Wood preservative” or “Toner” they mean the same thing. Think of a toner as a clear solution with a “tone” of cedar or redwood pigment added to it to give the wood some added color and protection. Wood preservatives will show the more of the natural look of the wood than the other stains and paints. They come in several different tones as well as a clear. Stay away from the clear unless you don’t mind redoing your deck next year, and they after that too. The pigment or lack thereof is what protects the deck. With clear wood preservatives, there is no pigment and very little UV protection. The darker the toner the better the production and the longer it will last and protect your wood. Wood toners and wood preservatives for the purpose of this article will mean the same thing.

Advantages of a wood preservatives/toners

Wood preservatives and toner do not peel, they simply fade over time.
Many wood preservatives are one coat products as well.
They are very easy to apply. Meaning wet drips and runs can be easily wiped off and blended in.
Can be applied over brand new pressure treated wood.
Future maintenance is easy. Just clean and reapply.
As the deck ages over the years, more opaque stains can be applied over wood preservatives.

Negatives of wood preservatives/toners

Deck and Fence wood preservatives and toners cannot be applied over anything darker or opaquer than what is currently present.
Decks over 15 years old that have cracking and obvious age only look marginally better.
If not applied properly, it will certainly leave lap marks. Boards need to be done from one end to the other.
Clear toners with little or no pigment need to be treated more often than semi-transparent and semi-solid stains. Most toners last 2 ½ years on decks and 4 years on fences. Areas with significant shade can last at least a year longer. The reason decks last a shorter amount of time is because of the constant wear.

Semi-transparent Stains

Semi-transparent deck and fence stains come in a larger sample of colors than wood preservatives/ toners. Semi-transparent stains will allow you to see plenty of the wood grain on your deck or fence, but typically less than a wood preservative. Like toners, they also don’t peel, and some of them can be applied on damp surfaces. This will allow you to power wash and seal on the same day! Many semi-transparent deck stains are one coat products as well. If so, do not put a second coat on unless you try the water test.

How long will it last? Not as long as the can says. It depends the short answer is 3-5 years. For fences, railings and vertical surfaces expect 4 to 5 years. For horizontal surfaces 3 years max. This means if you are sealing your deck and handrail in 2018, in 2021 you will only need to seal the deck! Besides the very top of the handrail which can easily be re-stained all the spindles can skip a re-coat.

Advantages of a semi-transparent stains

The darker semi-solids will give slightly more protection and longevity than a toner.
It never chips or peels.
Some products such as Olympic and Woodscapes can be applied on damp surfaces.
Recommended for decks less than 10 years old.
Can be applied with brush roller or sprayer

Disadvantages of semi-transparent stain

The pigment in semi-transparent settles quickly making it difficult to apply evenly and get even coverage. To avoid the settling of pigment it is necessary to stir every ten minutes or so. Many semi-solids are one coat products. If a second coat is needed, it should be applied before the first coat dries (about 15 minutes). This is a common problem.
Apply a second coat before the second coat seals. Within 15 minutes or so.
Should not go over decks that have had semi-solid stains or opaque stains or paints.
Should not go on decks with uneven areas where the deck is 15 years old or older. It will still likely look blotchy, less blotchy but not still blotchy.

Semi-Solid Stain – the stain shows a little of the grain and gives you the best possible protection that will not peel. It will chip over time but very little. Some grain of the wood will still be visible but not much. If you apply 2 or 3 coats of semi-solids over the years it will look like a solid, but it won’t peel. If you want to see some hint of the natural grain of the wood, a semi-solid is the most pigment you can have prior to having a totally opaque finish like a solid stain or paint.

Advantages of a semi-solid stain

It won’t peel but it will chip.
It has the best UV protection from any product that won’t peel.
Can be brushed rolled or sprayed.
Semi-solid deck stain comes in many colors.

Disadvantages of a semi-solid

After 2 or 3 applications of a semi-solid, it looks like a solid stain application.
Because it seals so well after several applications vertical surfaces can get stay glossy. If you don’t mind this look than it’s no problem. What the product is basically saying is “This surface was sealed, and the last application was unable to penetrate.” It’s like a sponge that can’t absorb any more water.
It will not fill in cracks in wood as decks start to age at the end of its lifespan.
The pigment also settles quickly and must be stirred frequently, or it can have an uneven finish.
Most be applied on the wood below 16% moisture content. Cannot clean and seal on the same day. Also, it cannot be applied to new pressure treated wood for 90 days.

Solid Deck Stains

Solid Stains – Experts say that solid stains provide maximum protection but I disagree. It peels too easily, and water gets trapped underneath the solid stain which provides more opportunity for peeling. Solid stains do not penetrate, so the heaviest traffic areas where you want the most protection are the first to go. Plus, they peel, which adds to the future prep work down the road.

When to use a solid deck or fence stain

I start recommending solid stains when the deck is around 15 or 18 years old. By this time the wood has typically had areas that look okay and areas where the wood is getting near the end and apply something other than a solid probably won’t hide the discrepancies and variations in the deck floor. Solid stains will solve this problem.
Solid stains will fill in minor cracks and can get multiple applications. In fact, most recommend two coats which I 100% agree with. I would strongly recommend always applying two coats on all surfaces because it greatly increases the longevity. You might not be able to see the difference right away, but you will down the road. Solid stains are also good choices to use if the deck is uneven with past wood preservatives.

The only practical solution to this deck is to replace it or apply a solid stain.

Advantages of a solid stain

Hides unevenness in deck wood.
Solid deck stains will fill in minor cracks.
You can make older decks look reasonable better.
You can pick any deck color you like.
Your deck wood can be brushed rolled or sprayed.
Your deck or fence can be touched up without flashing or getting glossy.
If you deck stain is maintained every 2-3 years, it will give maximum protection to the wood.

Disadvantages of a solid stain

Deck stain chips and peels over time.
Displays dirt and mildew faster than toners, semi-transparent and semi-solid stains.
Requires more prep work to apply future recoats if it is peeling.
Flat surfaces that are exposed to the elements rarely last more than 3-4 years.
The deck must be below 16%.
Applying two coats of solid deck stain results in more labor and materials.

Deck & Fence Age & Condition

Knowing what product to put on a deck or fence is no easy task. You will need to consider the age and condition of the wood. The age of a deck or fence can be divided up into 3 stages

Stage 1: Deck/fence is 1-6 years old (young)
Stage 2: Deck/fence is 7-15 years old, (middle aged)
Stage 3: Deck/fence 15 old? (seasoned)

What was the last product applied? Wood preservative, semi-transparent, semi-solid, solid stain, or paint
As we go through each product you will notice as the wood ages and becomes uneven appearance the options become more limited. It is safe to say though that unless you strip or sand a surface back down to bare wood you cannot switch to a less opaque look.

Pressure treated, PT, wood that is between 1-7 years old has the most options:
If the deck wood is untreated you can apply any of the four options:

Wood preservative
Semi-transparent
Semi-solid
Solid stain, or paint

Here is my recommendation for new or untreated decks under 15 years old: Use anything except a solid stain and paint on the deck because the deck stain or paint will start to peel. The other products fade over time. In my 30-year experience, I found when properly applied all products look great for the first year and good for the second year but start to fade and disappear in the third year. If you choose a solid deck stain and it just starts to peel, the others fade away leaving you with far less prep work. In fact, the only prep work is to clean the surface again with bleach and possible wood brightener and apply the product again. Some wood preservatives like Olympic and Deck Scapes can be applied on a damp surface. This means your deck can be cleaned and sealed in the same day saving money and time.

Solid Deck Stain vs. Paint

Semi-solids, solid stains and paint do not have that flexibility. Their moisture content needs to be 16% or less.
If your deck already has a semi-solid or solid stain or paint you will have to continue with that type of product or go all o
Paint vs Solid Stain. People often ask me what’s the difference between a solid stain or paint. There are several.

Solid Deck Stain & Paint

Paints have a harder finish and on flat surfaces will lead to quicker peeling.
Paints come in different sheens, from flat to glossy. Stains are mostly flat, and some stains have a low luster finish.
Paints can look fantastic, but I do not recommend using them on flat surfaces. Fences and handrails are a different story. Because they are vertical they don’t get the rain, snow, sun, and foot traffic that horizontal services do.
Solid deck stains are self-priming. Most paints that even claim to be self-priming would be better served to have a true primer applied first.

Advantages of Paint

Paint provides a classic look on fences, especially on historic homes.
Comes in thousands of colors and several sheens.
Paints with a sheen wash much better than flat solid stains and paints. Making periodic cleanings worth the effort.

Disadvantages of paint

It is the highest maintenance of all products. Especially on flat surfaces.
Paint on flat surfaces does not hold up well to the harsh elements and will generally peel in a year or so.
The fence wood needs to have a moisture content below 16 percent.
The fence wood should also be primed.

Thick Deck Paint

This is one last product that I have not mentioned yet but certainly needs to be discussed. Those super thick paints like that are supposed to fill in cracks on old decks. The paint state that they are 10 x thicker than normal paint. Unfortunately, I have used this product twice and both times it failed. I don’t think that they expand and contrast with the wood and they seem to come off in sheets. There are thousands of bad reviews and some lawsuits have caused me to come to one conclusion. These products have no advantages and should not be applied under any circumstances.

Advantages of thick deck paint

None – not even joking

Disadvantages of thick deck paint

Thick paint peels quickly.
Thick paint looks ugly.
Thick paint takes two coats.
Thick paint is expensive.
Thick paint is hard to apply (you could have 18 holes of golf played golf!).
Thick paint has horrible square ft coverage so you’ll purchase a lot of it.
Thick paint is uncomfortable to walk on.
If your deck is screwed on, good luck finding the screws after you apply this stuff. Repairs will become a nuisance that leaves the deck looking worse off afterwards.
Your oasis will be a bad memory.

Choosing the right product for you deck or fence

When considering the best product ask yourself a few questions. What is the purpose of maintaining your deck?

Are you:

Selling
Buying
Renting
Maintaining

Other circumstances that will dictate the proper wood material will be the use of the deck. If you have a lot of children and the deck is older a solid stain will help reduce the chance of splinters. If you have an active dog that will scratch the decking than something other than a solid stain or paint would be best.

Let Klappenberger & Sons take a look at your deck or fence situation. Our professional carpenters and painters will help to make your home’s paints and stains look beautiful and last longer. Contact us at 410-647-5700. We perform deck and fence staining for commercial buildings, local homes, and government buildings. We also perform historical restoration projects. Contact for all of your interior or exterior painting needs.

Solid Stain on Deck and Handrail